The relatively gentle river Tungabhadra flows eastwards near Virupaksha Temple and at about a kilometer downstream takes a sharp northward bend. This almost 90-degree bend of the river through strewn boulders and scattered rocks make river Tungabhadra turbulent inducing many whirlpools and undercurrents. At the elbow bend where the river changes direction from east to north, a quaint bathing ghat by name Chakrateertha is situated. Besides bathing ghat, there are several temples of significant religious importance. Foremost among them is Kodanda Rama Temple.
Kodanda Rama Temple is one of the smaller temples in Hampi and not a true depiction of the Vijayanagara Architecture nor its grandeur comparable to Virupaksha Temple, Vitthala Temple or much closer Achyuta Raya Temple. However, the temple is of equal importance for religious reasons. The temple stands at the site believed to be the place where Lord Rama coronated Sugriva as the King of Kishkindha – the monkey kingdom of Ramayana period (Treta yuga).
The rectangular inner sanctum or “Garbha Gruha” of the temple consists of tall standing figures of Lord Rama, Mata Sita and Lakshmana. Lord Rama and Lakshmana can be seen holding bows in their left hands and an arrow each in their right hands. Bow is also known as Kodanda in Sanskrit and Kannada languages, hence the temple derives its name – Kodanda Rama Temple. The several-hooded serpent God Adishesha can also be seen providing a shelter behind Lord Rama. The deity figures are found on a single boulder that stands about 12 to 15 feet tall. It is possible that the boulder may have been hard granite colour found locally but has turned black over time due to usage of oils and other material for worshipping.
The temple has a very small Mantapa and a courtyard for parikrama or circumambulation. There are handful of steps outside the temple and a Deepa Stambha or Lamp Pillar outside the temple on a raised platform. The temple is under the management of Government of Karnataka – Department of Religious Endowments. The priests appointed by Government take care of the religious proceedings at the temple.
What to expect?
There are a series of steps from the temple courtyard leading to the river and the bathing ghat – Chakrateertha. With the picturesque temple on one side and randomly strewn gigantic boulders on the other side, this ghat is an ideal spot for a short coracle or wicker basket boat ride. Keep in mind, avoid the boat ride or getting into the river during monsoon months when the river is in full spate and sometimes overflowing to the extent that the water level reaches the steps of Kodanda Rama Temple.
The Mantapa or the stone shelter to the left of Kodanda Rama Temple can often be found occupied by devotees who have come from far and nearby places to take a holy bath at Chakrateertha. It is believed that Chakrateertha is the most sacred bathing ghat in Hampi and a bath in the river water here could wash away sins. It is also the place where many Hindus gather to perform the last rites of their deceased ancestors or related rituals. Make an effort not to disturb any such religious gathering, and if you are curious, observe the proceedings from a distance.
It is also common for devotees to enter temple in wet clothes after taking bath at the ghat. It is also ritualistic among few communities to discard old/wet clothes into the river or dump them on the banks. Refrain from confronting, if you think they have forgotten accidentally, try to draw their attention towards it.
Devotees are required to leave their footwear outside the temple at a designated spot and walk into the temple barefoot. Please respect this rule.
Reaching Kodanda Rama Temple
There are three different routes to reach Kodanda Rama Teple and we are listing them here based on various factors that let visitors decide the route to take depending on distance and difficulty.
From Virupaksha Temple via Kampa Bhoopa Pathway
Virupaksha Temple once had a kilometer long sprawling bazaar during the Vijayanagara period. The rock cut multi-storeyed mantapas were shops for all kinds of merchandise drawing traders and customers from all over the world. Today, what remains is but the dust of the glorious bygone era that once was a bustling market. A walk along Virupaksha Bazaar from the Temple towards Eduru Basavanna, at about 2/3rds of a kilometer, a path on the left side leads towards the river. The pedestrian path along the riverbank is named Kampa Bhoopa path.
The road is only motorable up to Virupaksha Bazaar but private vehicles may be restricted at the parking gate and not permitted on Virupaksha Bazaar either. Starting from Virupaksha Bazaar, passing through a neatly laid out pavement that generally changes into rough patches and passage through naturally formed arch/tunnel, this walk up to Kodanda Rama Temple is an exciting one.
The total walk on Kampa Bhoopa path is about 300-400m but this route (or portions of it) may be submerged under the river water during monsoon season, especially when the gates of Tungabhadra dam – a few kilometers upstream are opened. This is by far the shortest and most convenient path except during monsoon months. Consult the locals and get a status update regarding water levels.
The alternate routes at such times include one from Eduru Basavanna through Matanga Hill and Achyuta Raya Temple and the other route from Vijaya Vitthala Temple via Kings Balance.
From Virupaksha Bazaar via Eduru Basavanna and Matanga Hill
When Kampa Bhoopa path is submerged, this route can be taken by climbing the steps besides Eduru Basavanna and climbing the Matanga Hill. Upon climbing the hill, you will see Achyuta Raya Temple on the other side. First, you will descend directly into the premises of Achyuta Raya Temple. Getting out of the temple, you walk straight to the northern end of Courtesan Street, you will be able to see the river Tungabhadra right ahead and Kodanda Rama Temple to your left.
While the ascent at Eduru Basavanna side of the hill has neatly rock-cut steps, the descent on Achyuta Raya Temple side is not so easy as these are not neatly laid down steps. It is a rough terrain passing through pedestrian route formed by trekkers. This route can pose some hardships to very young kids, aged people with heart conditions and knee problems. Estimated walking distance from eastern end of Virupaksha Bazaar is about ~1.2km.
From Vijaya Vitthala Temple
The route from Vijaya Vitthala Temple to Kodanda Rama Temple passes by King’s Balance and northern end of Courtesan Street. It is not as tough as Eduru Basavanna route but the distance is slightly more. The overall walking distance from Vitthala Temple to Kodanda Rama Temple is about 1.4km. The electric tourist vehicles available to shuttle tourists up to Vitthala Temple may reduce the overall walking distance. Vitthala Temple is 1.2km from the tourist car parking but electric vehicles run at regular intervals.
Temples & Monuments Nearby
Yantroddharaka Anjaneya Temple, Suryanarayana Temple (both situated right behind Kodanda Rama Temple), Achyuta Raya Temple, Vitthala Temple, King’s Balance, Koti Linga Temple, Sri Raghunandana Teertha Moola Brindavana, Sugriva’s Cave, Ancient Stone Bridge, Purandara Mantapa